No matter what the design may be, however, it is important that the proportions should be right ; if the pond is too large or too small the effect may appear ridiculous.

This applies to Dutch gardens in particular, especially where a low wall surrounds the pond also. If the pond is too large it will look as though it has a double wall around it. If the size is twenty feet square the pond should be about eight feet square ; a flat stone at each of the pond's four corners on which tubs of flowering shrubs are placed enhances the appearance and attracts insects, to the delight of the fishes.

One of the principal objections to having a pond in the garden is the possibility of the infant members of the household falling in. Another objection concerns the disposal of the excavated soil, particularly if the pond is to be a large one.

To meet both objections I would suggest a non-excavated pond. That is to say, one that is built up from the ground with bricks and cement. As this is a type well suited to fish breeding I will describe it more fully. The easiest shape to construct is the rectangular kind and it should be marked out first with peg and line. As the greatest depth should be two feet six inches-for the benefit of the water lily-and if it is thought that a pond of that height would look unsightly, a small excavation could be made in the centre. The soil from this may be used to build up the 1 shallows ' (see Fig. 2).

If, however, the pond is to be entirely above the ground level, the area within the marking strings should be well moistened-so that the cement will bond better-and a floor of cement, four inches thick, laid down. The surrounding wall may be built of bricks.